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Hockey is a fantastic sport
but in order to play it safely and enjoy the experience you
should have good equipment that fits properly to protect your
body yet still allows you a proper range of motion to perform
the required physical skill.
SKATES- skating is the most important yet the most difficult
skill to master in hockey. If possible, try to buy a new pair of
good quality skates. It will make a whole world of difference in
your player’s hockey development and skating performance. If
unable to, try to purchase the best quality used skates you can
find that fit properly and still have stiff ankle support and
good blade life.
Skates must fit snugly but not cramp your toes and have good
upright ankle support. –one pair of thin 100% cotton socks is
all you should wear not 2 or 3 pair.
Skates are usually 1 size smaller than street/running shoes to
provide a glove like fit.
LACING- the criss-cross or “X” method is considered the most
comfortable the bottom 3 eyelets should be semi- tight to allow
blood to circulate to the toes the middle 3 eyelets should be
semi- tight to allow an up and down movement of the top part of
the foot when starting and stopping. The top 3 eyelets should be
tight to keep the ankle in an upright position and prevent the
player from bending inside or outside over her ankles. There are
no weak ankles!
-Do not wrap the laces around the ankle to tie then as this
hinders the forward flex of the foot and ankle and will impair
your player’s skating speed and turns. Just tie them in a bow
knot at the front of the skate like you tie shoes. If the laces
are too long get shorter ones.
BLADES- the skate blades must be sharp, but not razor sharp, in
order for you to stop, start and turn without falling.
-if they are dull, the player will slip and slide all over the
ice and have a hard time standing up.
-if they are too sharp, they will dig into the ice and prevent
smooth stops and create a stutter when stopping and possibly
cause her to fall.
If you get a deep nick or burr on the bottom edge of your blade
you will fall. It should be sharpened as soon as possible by an
experienced skate sharpening professional.
-a good skate sharpening can mean all the difference between a
great game or a poor performance.
SHARPENING- you should not need your skates sharpened every
game, but 4 to 6 times a season is average unless you are
playing in a “AAA” league that practices and plays 4 to 6 times
a week, or you get a nick or burr on the blade’s edge.
-a good skate sharpener will cut a hollow ground U shape in the
bottom of the blade,
this provides 2 edges, an inside edge and an outside edge, both
used at different times for stops, starts , turns, 180 degree
pivots, crossovers etc.
-the depth of the cut should be based on your player’s height
and weight
-a medium sharpening, not razor sharp is all you require. It
will keep you in a stable upright position and allow you to just
bite into the ice, to push and glide without falling.
STICKS- after skates, your stick is the most important piece of
equipment because it is used for scoring and preventing goals.
-the stick must fit properly, just like skates if you are going
to develop you shooting, passing, puckhandling and stick
handling skills
2 sticks should be taken to practice and games in case one
breaks.
LENGTH– the sticks length when in an upright position, and while
you are standing in your skates should come up to between your
chin (maximum) and your collar bone (minimum). If it is any
longer or shorter you will have difficulty shooting or carrying
the puck. Experiment with different stick lengths to find the
most comfortable.
LIE- is the angle between the stick’s shaft and blade. The
higher the angle 135% the further the puck is away from your
feet. The lower the angle 110% the closer the puck is to your
feet.
-it’s trial and error to see which lie is best for your player
based on the way they skate, either bent over like Wayne Gretzky
did or up right like Mario Lemieux does, as no stick
manufacturer puts the lie angle on the stick. Once you find the
right stick model keep buying it as no 2 models are exactly
alike.
-youth size hockey sticks are now available which are lighter,
shorter in length and blade size and have a smaller shaft radius
for a better grip by young players.
CURVE- sticks are made for Left or Right handed shots. The lower
hand on the stick when shooting determines whether you shoot
Left or Right.
-a slight curve of about ¼ inch is ok because a straight stick
blade is very hard to find and I don’t believe they are made any
more.. A big curve on the other hand is out of the question
until your player gets to Bantam and even then I don’t think
it’s necessary.
NEW or USED EQUIPMENT- that provides solid protection is
essential to prevent injuries.
-used shin pads, pants, shoulder pads, elbow pads, gloves,
helmet with visor or cage, jock or jill strap, garter belt and
neck guard are all pieces of equipment that can be purchased
second hand from Sports Shops or at the annual Minor/Youth
Hockey sale at the start of the season. to help keep the high
costs of playing hockey down..
However having said that, the equipment purchased must fit
properly so it doesn’t move or shift if your player falls, gets
hit by the puck, gets body checked or runs into another player
or the boards.
-the proper fitting equipment will cushion the blow or fall
providing there is no space between the specific pieces of
equipment.
UNDERWEAR- light cotton, or a breathable material, long john
type, top and bottom underwear should be worn under your
equipment.
HOCKEY BAG- a hockey bag large enough to carry all of your
equipment is suggested.
-several pockets are on the out side to carry your skates and
wet/dry underwear
-keep an extra pair of skate laces, proper length in the bag for
emergency and a small towel to dry your skate blades after the
game or practice to prevent rusting. |
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